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Heterogeneous Spectacles

Alonzo King LINES Ballet: Mafate, Réunion

Wanderlust on Mafate Reunion Island with Alonzo King LINES Ballet Company. A Site Specific Dance in Mafate National Park on the island of Réunion in the Indian Ocean.

Mafate Reunion Island, Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, dance photography, san francisco dance. site specific dance, mountain dance photography

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, dance photography, san francisco dance. site specific dance,

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, ballet photography, san francisco, site specific dance

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, ballet photography, san francisco, site specific dance

Mafate Reunion Island, Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, dance photography, ballet photography, san francisco, site specific dance

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, ballet photography, san francisco, site specific dance

Mafate Reunion Island, Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, dance photography, ballet photography, san francisco, site specific dance, mountain

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, dance photography, ballet photography, san francisco dance. site specific dance

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, dance photography, mountain, ballet photography, san francisco, site specific dance

The mountains were his masters. They rimmed in life. They were the cup of reality, beyond growth, beyond struggle and death. They were his absolute unity in the midst of eternal change.
Thomas Wolfe, Look Homeward, Angel

Alonzo King LINES Ballet: Mafate, Réunion Island

Standing on top of a volcanic ridge in the middle of the Indian Ocean, watching two impossibly flexible humans contort themselves against a backdrop that would make Defoe weep with envy, this wasn’t on my bingo card. But here we are. Mafate. Réunion Island. The kind of place where you half expect to find the remnants of some doomed expedition, all gone Lord of the Flies by week three.

Babatunji and Madeline DeVries, these LINES Ballet dancers? They’re not just talented. They’re weaponized elegance. And I’m here with a camera, sweating through my shirt at altitude, trying to capture what is essentially the impossible: the human body defying physics in a place where most humans have no business being.

The thing about mountains on tropical islands is they mess with your head. Wells would have understood this, that sensation of being utterly removed from the known world, of existing in some pocket universe where different rules apply. Down below, there’s civilization, wifi, overpriced cocktails with little umbrellas. Up here? Nothing but wind, rock, and these two dancers moving like they’re channeling something primal. Something that predates prosceniums and theaters and polite applause.

This is what contemporary dance needs. Not another technically perfect performance in a climate-controlled theater. This. Artists doing what artists are actually supposed to do: pushing past the comfortable, shattering the boundaries of what we think is possible. You want to take it to the next level? You drag your art to the literal edge of the world and see if it still speaks. You risk everything: your body, your safety, your sanity. Because that’s where truth lives. On the precipice.

I watch Madeline extend into an arabesque on a ledge that drops away into literally nothing. My palms sweat. The photographer in me is thinking about the light, about the composition, about this once-in-a-lifetime moment. The human part of me is wondering what particular brand of beautiful insanity brings people to mountaintops to dance.

Babatunji moves like water. Like he’s been marooned here, all Crusoe-style, and adapted, evolved, become something that belongs to this ridge more than to any stage. That’s what great performers do, isn’t it? They colonize space. They make it submit. And in doing so, they break through every safe assumption about where dance belongs, what dance should be.

This is boundary-breaking in its purest form. Not conceptual. Not theoretical. Physical. Real. The kind of artistic risk that makes your pulse quicken because you know, you absolutely know, that if they fall, if they fail, there’s no safety net. There’s just rock and void and consequence. That’s integrity. That’s what happens when artists refuse to be domesticated.

And I’m the witness. Standing here with my gear, completely aware of the absurdity, the beautiful, necessary absurdity of documenting grace in a place this unforgiving. The island doesn’t care about art. The wind doesn’t pause for perfect composition. But these dancers? They came here anyway. They brought civilization’s highest achievement, disciplined human movement, to the edge of the civilized world, then pushed it further still.

Dancing on Magma: How to Murder Your Teachers

Réunion Island Volcano with Alonzo King LINES Ballet.

You stand there in front of someone else’s vision, whether it’s Diane Arbus showing you how broken people are beautiful or Cartier-Bresson with his decisive moment horseshit, and it gets inside you like a virus, like Burroughs’ language virus, and suddenly you’re not seeing anymore, you’re remembering how someone else saw.

These dancers on this volcano, and Christ, what a sick, gorgeous metaphor that is, they’re doing the same brutal math we all do. They’ve learned every position, every line from Balanchine or Graham or whoever the hell broke them in, and now they’re out there on volcanic rock, literal fucking magma underneath, trying to make something that’s theirs. Trying to burn off the scar tissue of their teachers.

Because that’s what the quote’s really about, isn’t it? It’s not some zen koan about finding yourself. It’s about the violence of becoming. Nietzsche didn’t just “read” Schopenhauer, he was infected by him, colonized by pessimism so profound it could justify suicide as a reasonable lifestyle choice. And then he had to tear that infestation out of his brain with his bare hands, had to savage his own intellectual father figure to death just to hear his own voice again.

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, James Gowan, Reunion Volcano

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, James Gowan

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, James Gowan, Reunion Volcano

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, Ashley Mayeux, Suaib Elhassan, Reunion Volcano

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, Ashley Mayeux, Reunion Volcano

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, Maya Harr, Reunion Volcano

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, Michael Montgomery, Ashley Mayeux, Reunion Volcano

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, Maya Harr, Reunion Volcano

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, Michael Montgomery, Ashley Mayeux

Alonzo King, LINES Ballet, San Francisco Dance, Dance Photography, Site Specific Dance, Reunion Island, Volcano, Crateres Aubert de la Rue, ballet, Leica, san francisco art, artist, Jamie Lyons, Maya Harr, Suaib Elhassan, Reunion Volcano

My photography, hell, my anything, is always going to be contaminated at first. I’m going to shoot like the people who made me want to shoot. I’m going to see their ghosts in your viewfinder. And that’s fine, that’s necessary even, like learning chord progressions before I can write a song (never done this) or getting drunk before you can write honestly about sobriety (never done that either).

But eventually, and this is where it gets ugly, you have to murder your influences. Not ignore them, not thank them and move on like some gracious commencement speech. You have to kill them. Because if you don’t, you’re just a cover band, and nobody needs another cover band.

Alonzo King LINES Ballet: Réunion Island Volcano

Alonzo King LINES Ballet Pole Star

The world premier of Alonzo King LINES Ballet Pole Star, with Vân-Ánh Vanessa Võ  at Yerba Buena Center for the Arts.

Alonzo King LINES Ballet
Vân-Ánh Vanessa Võ 
Pole Star
World Premier April 12th, 2019
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts

LINES Ballet Pole Star, ballet dancer, dance photography, YBCA

LINES Ballet Pole Star, ballet dancer, dance photography, YBCA

LINES Ballet Pole Star, ballet dancer, dance photography, YBCA

LINES Ballet Pole Star, ballet dancer, dance photography, YBCA

LINES Ballet Pole Star, ballet dancer, dance photography, YBCA

LINES Ballet Pole Star, ballet dancer, dance photography, YBCA

Alonzo King LINES Ballet Pole Star

Alonzo King LINES Ballet Pole Star

The deep art…

That’s the part that has to be guarded like a miser would his money…
Like a dope addict would his dope…
Like a lover with their love.
Alonzo King

The Deep Art

Behind the scenes in the studio rehearsal footage of LINES Ballet’s upcoming collaboration with Vân-Ánh Vanessa Võ for their world premier of Pole Star.

Notre Dame, Paris

Here’s what I didn’t think about when I was standing there at midnight in front of Notre Dame with a Polaroid camera: that I was taking a photograph of something that wouldn’t exist anymore. Not in two days. Not ever again, really. Not the way it was when I was there, then.

I’m just exhausted. Jet-lagged beyond all recognition of what time means anymore. I’ve come from Reunion Island, and Paris is just another stop before home. Before the Bay Area. Before I can finally stop moving. I’m wandering the streets and something makes me take this picture. Maybe it’s the light. Maybe it’s because Polaroids are stupid and romantic and completely impractical, which is exactly why they matter. I remember sitting on a ballard waiting for it to develop, the chemical smell, that slow reveal of shadows and stone and eight hundred years of human ambition made vertical barely illuminated by a nearby streetlight.

I probably didn’t look at it that hard. I was tired.

Next day, I fly home. When I finally get there, after circumnavigating the entire goddamn globe, I don’t unpack. I don’t check my phone. I don’t do anything except fall into bed like a building collapsing.
Then Lindsey wakes me up. And here’s the thing about being woken up from that kind of sleep, I’m not even in my body yet. I’m somewhere between continents, between time zones, between conscious thought and absolute nothing.

“Notre Dame is burning down.”

It’s too absurd. Too perfectly timed to my own small story to be real. But it’s real. I watch it on a screen. The whole world watching something die in real-time.

Somewhere in my bag, probably still unpacked, is that Polaroid. That stupid, beautiful, accidental document of a thing that was about to end.

That’s the thing about photographs, about memory, about standing in front of monuments at midnight when you should be sleeping: you think you’re just killing time. But sometimes you’re a witness. Sometimes you’re holding evidence of the world as it was, before.

The Polaroid didn’t save anything. Notre Dame still burned.

But I’ve got this piece of film that says: I was there. It stood.
We both existed at the same moment, under the same sky, before things changed.

Notre Dame, Sepia, Polaroid, Paris

But Paris was a very old city and we were young and nothing was simple there, not even poverty, nor sudden money, nor the moonlight, nor right and wrong nor the breathing of someone who lay beside you in the moonlight.
Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast

Père Lachaise Cemetery

Père Lachaise Cemetery: let’s talk of graves, of worms, and epitaphs among the tombs and rubble of Cimetière du Père Lachaise.

Cimetière du Père Lachaise, Pére Lachaise Cemetery

The cemetery is an open space among the ruins,
covered in winter with violets and daisies.
It might make one in love with death,
to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place.
Percy Bysshe Shelley, Adonais

Marcel Proust

Marcel Proust. 1871 to 1922. Fifty-one years, most of them spent indoors.

Asthmatic. Sickly. Spent the last years of his life in a cork-lined bedroom in Paris, writing in bed, sleeping during the day, working at night. Obsessed with memory, with time, with how the past lives inside us whether we want it to or not.

In Search of Lost Time. Seven volumes. 3,000 pages, give or take. One of the longest novels ever written. Took him fourteen years. He died before he finished editing it.

Everyone knows the madeleine. The little cake dipped in tea that unlocks his entire childhood. Taste as time machine. Flavor as memory. That moment, that’s Proust. The idea that the past isn’t gone, it’s just waiting for the right taste, the right smell, the right sensation to bring it all flooding back.

He wrote about aristocratic French society, love, jealousy, art, homosexuality… coded, careful, because this was early 1900s France and you couldn’t just say it. He said it anyway, just in a way that required paying attention.

The first volume? Rejected by publishers. André Gide at Gallimard turned it down without reading it. Proust had to self-publish. Later, Gide admitted it was the biggest mistake of his career.

Now it’s considered one of the greatest novels ever written. Modernist masterpiece. Essential. The kind of book people say they’ve read but haven’t.

The sickly kid who barely left his room wrote 3,000 pages about memory and time and everything that matters.

The madeleine. That fucking madeleine. He understood something the rest of us spend our whole lives trying to figure out.

Marcel Proust, Pere Lachaise, grave, Proust madeleine memory

If at least, time enough were alloted to me to accomplish my work, I would not fail to mark it with the seal of Time, the idea of which imposed itself upon me with so much force to-day, and I would therein describe men, if need be, as monsters occupying a place in Time infinitely more important than the restricted one reserved for them in space, a place, on the contrary, prolonged immeasurably since, simultaneously touching widely separated years and the distant periods they have lived through — between which so many days have ranged themselves — they stand like giants immersed in Time.
Marcel Proust, The Past Recaptured, 1927

Part of a bigger thing I’m doing. Grave. People who mattered to me. People who changed how I see the world.

La Grande Nuit de l’Opéra: How Maria Callas Murdered Everyone at the Palais Garnier and Made Them Thank Her

December 19, 1958. The Palais Garnier. You want to talk about a moment when the universe temporarily stopped fucking around? This might have been it.

Maria Callas didn’t just perform that night. She walked into that gilded Belle Époque monument to French self-satisfaction, all those marble staircases and chandelier’d horseshoe balconies where the bourgeoisie had been pretending to understand art for a century, and she basically committed an act of violence. Beautiful, necessary violence.

The guest list read like some dream of mid-century cultural weight: René Coty (the French President), Jean Cocteau (who’d already seen everything and was jaded about all of it until he wasn’t), Charlie Chaplin (genius recognizing genius), Brigitte Bardot (sex personified sitting there in the dark), and Aristotle Onassis lurking in the wings like fate wearing a tuxedo. This wasn’t an audience. This was a tribunal of the arbiters of what mattered, and they’d come to pass judgment.

Callas showed up dripping in couture and jewels, because if you’re going to destroy people, you might as well look like a goddess doing it, and what she did in that first half was basically give a masterclass in how to make human suffering sound like the only thing that’s ever mattered.

“Casta Diva” from Norma, Bellini’s prayer to the moon goddess that’s so pure it shouldn’t be possible for a human throat to produce it. But Callas wasn’t human that night. She was channeling something older, something that understood that beauty and pain are the same damn thing. The voice floated out over that audience like smoke, like a ghost, like every regret you’ve ever had made audible.

Then she pivoted, because Callas never let you get comfortable, into the “Miserere” from Il Trovatore. Verdi’s death march dressed up as music. The scene where Leonora stands outside the prison tower while Manrico’s about to get his head removed from his body, and all she can do is sing about it. You want desperation? You want the sound of someone clawing at the walls of the universe? That’s what she gave them.

And then, then, she hit them with “Una voce poco fa” from The Barber of Seville. Rossini’s firecracker of coloratura, all flirtation and manipulation and brilliant, calculated feminine power. She went from tragedy to comedy like switching channels, proving that the whole range of human experience was just there, available, in her instrument. No big deal. Just casual mastery of everything.

Intermission. People probably needed oxygen.

Second half: Act II of Tosca. Puccini’s magnificent exploitation film, where art and murder and sex and politics all slam into each other in Scarpia’s apartment. Callas was Tosca, the diva who kills the police chief because he’s a predator and she’s not having it. The “Vissi d’arte”, “I lived for art, I lived for love”, became this searing question about why God lets terrible things happen to people who just wanted to make beautiful things.

And here’s the thing about that performance: it was real. Not “realistic” in some bullshit theatrical sense, but real in the way that matters. Callas wasn’t indicating emotion or “portraying” passion. She was actually experiencing it, right there, in front of everyone. That’s terrifying. That’s why people couldn’t look away.

The fact that this moment got preserved on film (now restored and colorized in 2023, so we can see her in full Technicolor splendor) means that future generations get to witness what actual transcendence looks like. Not the polite, tasteful version. The dangerous version. The version that reminds you that art isn’t supposed to be comfortable. It’s supposed to crack you open.

La Grande Nuit de l’Opéra wasn’t just a concert. It was proof that sometimes, just sometimes, one person can stand in front of the void and sing it into submission. And everyone else can shut the fuck up and listen.

Devils Slide / Matchstick Cove

Devil’s Slide is the kind of place that makes you understand why people drive off cliffs. Not in some morbid, suicidal way, though Highway 1 has claimed its share of souls who got hypnotized by that impossible blue, but because beauty this raw, this uncompromising, it does something to your brain chemistry. It rewires the circuits.

You come around that bend south of Pacifica, and suddenly you’re clinging to a ribbon of asphalt that some maniac engineer decided to carve into a mountain face that clearly wanted nothing to do with human ambition. The Pacific is doing its thing three hundred feet below, eternal, indifferent, crushing rocks into sand with the patience of a god who has all the time in the world and knows you don’t.

Devils Slide Bunker, Devils Slide, Highway One, San Mateo Coast

That WWII bunker up there… Some military genius decided this godforsaken, beautiful stretch of coast needed defending. From what, exactly? Japanese submarines? The relentless assault of pelicans? It’s been abandoned for decades, covered in graffiti, slowly being reclaimed by ice plant and salt air. A concrete monument to the temporary nature of everything we build, everything we fear, everything we think matters.

Standing at Matchstick Cove, so named because when you look down from the right angle, the rock formations look like spent matches scattered by some giant’s hand, you understand that nature doesn’t give a damn about your Instagram feed or your curated experience of authenticity.

This is the California they don’t put in the brochures. Not the sanitized, wine-country, Travel & Leisure where everything is optimized and disrupted. This is the California that kills you if you’re not paying attention. The California that was here before the Spanish missions, before the Gold Rush, before anyone decided that manifest destiny was a good enough reason to pave paradise.

The thing about Highway 1 through here, and they’ve since built a tunnel to bypass the worst of Devil’s Slide, because apparently we’ve lost our taste for mortal peril during the morning commute, is that it forced you to confront your own insignificance. Every winter, chunks of the road would just slide into the ocean. The earth was quite literally saying: “I don’t care about your need to get to the Ritz Carlton in Half Moon Bay.”

You want the real California experience? Pull over at one of those dirt turnouts where there’s no railing between you and forever. Get out. Feel that wind coming off the Pacific, air that’s traveled four thousand miles from Japan without touching land. Listen to the waves hitting those rocks—the same sound the Ohlone people heard, the same sound that’ll be here long after our whole ridiculous civilization has collapsed into the sea.

That’s the thing about places like this: they don’t need you. They don’t want you. They’ll be here, indifferent to your passage, your photography, your attempts to capture or commodify or understand them.

Devils Slide, Matchstick Cove, Leica, Prohibited, Highway One

…innocence of eye has a quality of its own. It means to see as a child sees, with freshness and acknowledgment of the wonder; it also means to see as an adult sees who has gone full circle and once again sees as a child – with freshness and an even deeper sense of wonder.
Minor White

Ron “Pigpen” McKernan

Ron McKernan, Pigpen, Palo Alto, Alta Mesa Memorial Park, Grateful Dead, Warlocks

Ron “Pigpen” McKernan

Ron “Pigpen” McKernan Pigpen was fourteen when he landed in Palo Alto. Found work at Dana Morgan’s Music Store downtown, where he met Jerry Garcia. Two kids in a music shop. You know how this goes.

McKernan, Garcia, Bob Weir, they started playing together. The Zodiacs. Mother McCree’s Uptown Jug Champions. Names that sound like someone’s putting you on, but this was real. This was the beginning.

Bill Kreutzmann shows up on drums, and now you’ve got something. The Warlocks. Around ’65, Pigpen, because this is his story, he’s the one pushing them to go electric. Phil Lesh comes in on bass. They need a new name. The Grateful Dead.

And here’s the thing: Pigpen was the Dead. The original frontman. The best singer they had. Before Jerry became Jerry, before all the myth-making and the parking lot economy and the tie-dye industrial complex, it was Pigpen’s band.

Twenty-seven years old. Dead in Corte Madera.

A week before, he’d recorded something on a tape cassette. They found it in his apartment after.

Don’t make me live in this pain
no longer

You know, I’m gettin’ weaker, not
stronger

My poor heart can’t stand no more
Just can’t keep from talkin’
If you gonna walk out that door,
start walkin’

I’ll get back somehow
Maybe not tomorrow, but someday
I know someday I’ll find someone
Who can ease my pain like you once donea‘Pigpen’ McKernan Dead at 27, Rolling Stone

They buried him in Alta Mesa Memorial Park. Across the street from Gunn High School. I went to Gunn.

Twenty-seven years old in the ground. The dead watching the living. The living, mostly, not noticing.

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